Thursday 18 September 2014

Cruising the Galapagos with Nat Geo






Like playful puppies, sea lions often fight each other. Probably best to leave them at it. Like playful puppies, sea lions often fight each other. Probably best to leave them at it.

Santa Cruz is a great place to see giant tortoises in their natural habitat. Santa Cruz is a great place to see giant tortoises in their natural habitat.

Galapagos penguins are the only members of their species found in the northern hemisphere and are endemic to the archipelago. Galapagos penguins are the only members of their species found in the northern hemisphere and are endemic to the archipelago.

This species of waved albatross on Espanola Island is endemic to the Galapagos archipelago. The rocky trail up to their nesting site is worth the boulder-hopping.This species of waved albatross on Espanola Island is endemic to the Galapagos archipelago. The rocky trail up to their nesting site is worth the boulder-hopping.

Marine iguanas are another species only found in the Galapagos. The inky charcoal black reptiles are the only aquatic lizards in the world.Marine iguanas are another species only found in the Galapagos. The inky charcoal black reptiles are the only aquatic lizards in the world.


If you're lucky, you may find yourself snorkeling with sea lions. They don't bite. Well, maybe just a nibble, says naturalist Giancarlo Toti.

If you're lucky, you may find yourself snorkeling with sea lions. They don't bite. Well, maybe just a nibble, says naturalist Giancarlo Toti.

Kayaking is one way to connect with life above and below the waves while abroad the conservation-focused, naturalist-led Lindblad Expeditions-National Geographic Endeavour.Kayaking is one way to connect with life above and below the waves while abroad the conservation-focused, naturalist-led Lindblad Expeditions-National Geographic Endeavour.

Many of the main islands of the Galapagos have their own subspecies of marine iguanas. Unlike other iguanas, they feed exclusively underwater on algae.Many of the main islands of the Galapagos have their own subspecies of marine iguanas. Unlike other iguanas, they feed exclusively underwater on algae.

The blue-footed booby has a giggle-inducing name that actually comes from the Spanish word for fool or clown. Not only are they clumsy on land -- like other seabirds -- they're also considered foolish for their apparent fearlessness.The blue-footed booby has a giggle-inducing name that actually comes from the Spanish word for fool or clown. Not only are they clumsy on land -- like other seabirds -- they're also considered foolish for their apparent fearlessness.

In the cold season you can witness golden rays schooling to mate in the Galapagos.In the cold season you can witness golden rays schooling to mate in the Galapagos.

Expedition leader Paula Tagle wants the Galapagos' success to inspire other places to continue their efforts. "if you can make it here, you can make it anywhere," she says.Expedition leader Paula Tagle wants the Galapagos' success to inspire other places to continue their efforts. "if you can make it here, you can make it anywhere," she says.

Zodiacs are a great platform for photography in the Galapagos. Endeavour's naturalists, all accomplished photographers themselves, are aces at maneuvering to setup a shot and offering timely tips in the field.Zodiacs are a great platform for photography in the Galapagos. Endeavour's naturalists, all accomplished photographers themselves, are aces at maneuvering to setup a shot and offering timely tips in the field.

Just because you're on a conservation cruise, doesn't mean you have to give up small luxuries. Endeavour's pool is a great place to watch a sunset from.Just because you're on a conservation cruise, doesn't mean you have to give up small luxuries. Endeavour's pool is a great place to watch a sunset from.








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  • Blue-footed boobies, Galapagos penguins and marine iguanas are some of the species only found in the Galapagos

  • The Galapagos National Park is over 3,000 square miles of islands and islets located 600 miles off Ecuador's mainland

  • GNPS designs the itinerary and scheduled landings for every ship to reduce pressure on the islands




(CNN) -- My first foray into deep water brings me face to face with some of the islands' most ebullient locals.


As shoals of slim surgeonfish, parrotfish and clownfish wind between the gray rocks and drift in the current, they suddenly appear -- six Galapagos sea lions -- fat sleek bullets that zoom right up to my mask, upside down and mouths open, before twisting away at the last minute.


Clambering back into the Zodiac dinghy -- or panga, as they're known in the Galapagos -- for the short return trip to the National Geographic Endeavour, one fellow "explorer" quizzes our accompanying naturalist.


"Oh, they won't bite you," he reassures us. Less reassuringly, he adds: "Maybe. But just a little."





Wildlife filmmaker gets close encounter.

All the animals throughout the Galapagos National Park, more than 3,000 square miles of islands and islets 600 miles off Ecuador's mainland, are unperturbed by our presence.


As there are no big predators -- or people -- on most of the islands the animals show no fear.


And because many species are endemic to the Galapagos or even one of its 13 main islands, there's literally nowhere else in the world that you can have this kind of encounter.


MORE: 7 spots for prime wildlife viewing





The beautiful wildlife of the Galapagos

Sailing for science


I'm aboard the conservation-focused, naturalist-led Lindblad Expeditions-National Geographic Endeavour, a ship that lets passengers connect with life both above and below the waves through kayak and Zodiac excursions.


Unbelievably, the uninhabited islands are much as Charles Darwin experienced them in 1885.


Floreana, the second island on which Darwin landed, still has a "post office" that dates back to whaling days when crews would leave mail in a rum barrel.


People still leave postcards here to be hand delivered by future visitors (those I addressed to the UK arrived within two weeks via hands unknown).


"It's a land left untamed ... One of the last parts of the world that's really wild," says fellow passenger Jim Calaway, an investments portfolio manager from Illinois.




Water-proof cameras required.

Water-proof cameras required.



Daily recaps and talks by eminent scientists give cruises their characteristic research-meets-education feel.


Voyages also have a strong photography slant, with most on-board naturalists certified as photo instructors by National Geographic.


On Espanola, we boulder-hop along rough trails to reach an albatross nesting site, often stepping over groups of inky charcoal black marine iguanas.


Genovesa's rough, lunar landscape seems inhospitable but teems with seabirds, including half a million red footed boobies -- the largest population in the world.


Walking through prickly pear trees along a sandy path to Santa Cruz's aptly named "Cerro Dragon," (Dragon Hill) we spot 28 dusty-yellow-brown Galapagos land iguanas.


During that afternoon's ride to the eastern shore of Santa Cruz, dubbed "El Eden" for its scenic beauty, naturalist Giancarlo Toti doles out photo tips in time for us to snap a great blue heron feeding its gulping chick.


"I love these cruises because there's always one special thing for everybody," says Toti. "This for me was the most special thing this time -- the heron feeding its chick. I have never seen that before."


MORE: 5 stunning places to see penguins


Exploration highlights


Exploring the Galapagos Marine Reserve -- the second largest in the world at more than 50 square miles -- is as integral to the expedition experience as the guided hikes across the islands.




The Northern Hemisphere\'s only penguin is a natural underwater.

The Northern Hemisphere's only penguin is a natural underwater.



On one of the daily snorkel expeditions I spot octopi, manta rays and a solitary Galapagos penguin, puffed up as if to officiate, on various excursions.


Although the Endeavour -- named for Captain Cook's former command -- doesn't offer scuba diving, single-day excursions can be arranged with a local operator; it's also the only ship cruising the park with an underwater specialist and a remotely operated vehicle on board.


While tourism to the region has tripled in the last 20 years -- just over 200,000 people visited the Galapagos last year -- visitors cruising the islands with responsible operators are helping to correct the damage caused by over hunting and species introduced by sailors, whalers and pirates.


Sixty percent of each visitor's $100 entrance fee goes directly to the Galapagos National Park Service, funding rangers, naturalists and conservation work.




Part luxury cruise, part naturalist research vessel.

Part luxury cruise, part naturalist research vessel.



Expedition leader Paula Tagle says only 84 ships have been allowed in the national park since she began working there in 1997, of which only four are similar in size to the 96-passenger Endeavour.


There are strictly enforced park rules -- all visitors must be accompanied by a naturalist and vice versa, with no more than 16 people at any one time -- GNPS also schedules itineraries and landings for every ship to reduce pressure on the islands.


The downside of such regimentation is there's no lingering. The upshot is never seeing another ship or any other "explorers."


With an ever-growing influx of tourist dollars comes more domestic migration to the Galapagos.


Tagle says poorly controlled growth in the inhabited areas and other types of non-cruise tourism are what need attention, rather than the national park area.


"I think 55% of visitors now do the [island hopping] kind of tourism versus 45% that come to the ships to spend the night, like [on the Endeavour].


"But even more are going to the towns that have grown in a disorganized way," she adds.


MORE: Ultimate first-class airline offers


Tortoise breeding


Hearing the story of Lonesome George, the last known of the Pinta Island tortoises and the symbol of the Galapagos (he died at the Charles Darwin Research Station on Santa Cruz in 2012) brings home the importance of the conservation controls.


Although George's caretakers are still watching his two female companions in the hope that they might yet lay eggs -- female tortoises can store viable sperm in their bodies for up to three years before fertilizing themselves -- the species is now believed to be extinct.


But many initiatives at the Darwin facility have been a success, including a project to revive Espanola's dwindling tortoise population using "Super" Diego, an especially virile Espanola tortoise returned to the Galapagos from San Diego Zoo.


"Eighty percent of the center's hatchlings -- so anywhere from 70 to 150 hatchlings a year -- come from Diego and his five girlfriends," naturalist Gilda Gonzalez tells me, with a wink.




They may be able to support a small child on their back. But no adults, please.

They may be able to support a small child on their back. But no adults, please.



Santa Cruz is also a great place to see giant tortoises in their natural habitat.


After a quick stop at a local sugar cane mill -- and a warming tot of the local moonshine -- we arrive at a highland farm, pull on rubber boots and stride off into orchards full of wild tortoises, flattening bushes and bulldozing saplings as they move from one juicy cluster of leaves to the next.


Keen eyesight and hearing is not their strong suit -- smell is a giant tortoise's best sense -- so we approach from behind to pose for surreptitious photos as they continue their methodic chomping.


It's only when we pass a tortoise close to the path that he notices us and retreats into his shell with a long, deflationary hiss.


"Today we are very lucky to see 11 tortoises -- sometimes there aren't any up here," says naturalist Ximena Cordova.


"It takes them three months to come up to the highlands to mate and three months to go back to the lowlands to give birth. These guys are smart -- they're waiting up here for the females to come back."


For me, seeing these huge hulking carapaces thriving once again in their natural habitat, is one of the most memorable encounters of the trip.


"Conservation is a big theme and every day we talk about results here, results there ... I think it gives hope to people to restore other places," says expedition leader Tagle.


"We have a saying -- if you can make it here, you can make it anywhere."


Lindblad Expeditions-National Geographic operates 10-day expeditions (a seven-day cruise + transfers) aboard National Geographic Endeavour and National Geographic Islander departing San Cristobal and Baltra, year-round.


Cruises are priced from $5,490 per person based on double occupancy, exclusive of international flights and internal flights to Galapagos; +1 212 261 9000.


Gemma Price is a freelance travel writer and spent a week aboard National Geographic Endeavour on a trip to the Galapagos in August 2014.



Thrills, spills at World Nomad Games






The first-ever World Nomad Games took place in Kyrgyzstan, September 9-14. In horse wrestling (pictured), two opponents try to pull each other off their mounts. Kyrgyzstan took home the gold medal in the event.The first-ever World Nomad Games took place in Kyrgyzstan, September 9-14. In horse wrestling (pictured), two opponents try to pull each other off their mounts. Kyrgyzstan took home the gold medal in the event.

Demonstrations of eagle hunting were popular, with the huge birds of prey soaring close to spectators. Few true nomads exist today. Many spectators came from towns and cities to relive old ways in a display for older generations and curious young.Demonstrations of eagle hunting were popular, with the huge birds of prey soaring close to spectators. Few true nomads exist today. Many spectators came from towns and cities to relive old ways in a display for older generations and curious young.

Stuntmen on horses reenacted battles. Some riders were set on fire for effect. Stuntmen on horses reenacted battles. Some riders were set on fire for effect.

Kok boru was perhaps the most brutal -- and popular -- event. Two teams of men on horses attempt to send the carcass of a headless goat into their opponent's goal. Kok boru was perhaps the most brutal -- and popular -- event. Two teams of men on horses attempt to send the carcass of a headless goat into their opponent's goal.

Host country Kyrgyzstan placed two teams in kok boru competition. Both met in the finals.Host country Kyrgyzstan placed two teams in kok boru competition. Both met in the finals.

Kyrgyzstan and Kazakhstan dominated the games. Kyrgyzstan won seven of the ten events. Kazakhstan won the rest. Kyrgyzstan and Kazakhstan dominated the games. Kyrgyzstan won seven of the ten events. Kazakhstan won the rest.

Many spectators stayed in a temporary town with 150 yurts.Many spectators stayed in a temporary town with 150 yurts.

A U.S. Peace Corps volunteer plays toguz korgool, in which two players compete by counting and re-distributing stones into sockets on a board. A U.S. Peace Corps volunteer plays toguz korgool, in which two players compete by counting and re-distributing stones into sockets on a board.

Kyrgyz food, music and fashion were a part of the concurrent Nomad Folk Festival. Kyrgyz food, music and fashion were a part of the concurrent Nomad Folk Festival.

Kyrgyz dressed in traditional attire and rode horses, reenacting the lives of nomadic people.Kyrgyz dressed in traditional attire and rode horses, reenacting the lives of nomadic people.









  • The first World Nomad Games were held in Kyrgyzstan last week

  • The six-day games showcased vanishing traditions and culture

  • A temporary camp with 150 yurts was set up to host guests

  • Kyrgyzstan dominated the games




Kyrgyzstan (CNN) -- Headless goats.


Soaring eagles.


Men trying to drag each other off of horses.


These were just some of the highlights of last week's first-ever World Nomad Games, held near the shores of Lake Issyk-Kul in Cholpon-Ata City, Kyrgyzstan.


About 400 athletes came from 19 countries -- mostly Central Asia, as well as Turkey, Mongolia and even Germany and the United States.


The games were sponsored by the Kyrgyzstan government.


A temporary camp with 150 yurts was set up in Kyrchyn Jailoo to host guests.


In addition to traditional competitions such as wrestling and kok boru (in which two teams of horsemen try to push a headless goat carcass into a goal), performances and folk games kept crowds active.


An official at the opening ceremony rang in the games by declaring: "All humans were originally nomads."


As nomadic peoples have become minorities in modern societies, the six-day games were organized to showcase vanishing traditions and culture.


"[Nomadic sports] are in no way inferior in staginess and popularity [to] the modern Olympics," says the games' official website.


"Games give powerful impetus to rebirth ... original national sports, spiritual self-awareness and historical memory of nomad nations of the world."


Photographer Jonny Duncan has been backpacking since 1997. He blogs on his own Backpackingman website.



Miley Cyrus flag stunt condemned





  • Miley Cyrus act in Monterrey included a "spanking" with the Mexican Flag

  • Nuevo Leon state legislator: "She brazenly made fun of our flag"

  • He says Mexico's Interior Ministry has opened an investigation

  • Tuesday, the day of the incident, was Mexico's Independence Day




(CNN) -- Miley Cyrus came to Mexico "like a wrecking ball" -- to quote her hit song -- offending fans at Monterrey concert and prompting a federal investigation.


This happened Tuesday in Monterrey, during the first of four scheduled "Bangerz Tour 2014" gigs in Mexico:


As Cyrus was "twerking" in the middle of a song, one of the two dancers contorting beside her used a Mexican flag to spank the oversized, false buttocks she was wearing.


Adding insult to injury: Tuesday was Mexico's Independence Day.









There was much excitement when Miley Cyrus launched her "Bangerz" tour in Vancouver, British Columbia, in February, but since then the controversial singer has been beset by woes including ending up in the hospital with "a severe allergic reaction to antibiotics." Here are a few other issues that have cropped up along the way. There was much excitement when Miley Cyrus launched her "Bangerz" tour in Vancouver, British Columbia, in February, but since then the controversial singer has been beset by woes including ending up in the hospital with "a severe allergic reaction to antibiotics." Here are a few other issues that have cropped up along the way.



Tragedy struck in early April with the death of the singer's favorite pooch, Floyd. Cyrus tweeted to her Boston fans in advance of her concert there that she was "beyond miserable." The gift of a new dog from her mother apparently did little to console her, as Cyrus later tweeted that she gave the new dog away to a friend. Tragedy struck in early April with the death of the singer's favorite pooch, Floyd. Cyrus tweeted to her Boston fans in advance of her concert there that she was "beyond miserable." The gift of a new dog from her mother apparently did little to console her, as Cyrus later tweeted that she gave the new dog away to a friend.



Some parents were reportedly less than thrilled with the singer's provocative antics during her concerts. Some parents were reportedly less than thrilled with the singer's provocative antics during her concerts.



Katy Perry and Cyrus got in some smooching action during the latter's Los Angeles concert in February. Cyrus tweeted the lip lock, though the pair later got into a beef about the smooch when Perry questioned Cyrus' tongue hygiene during a radio interview in March. They later made up -- via Twitter, of course. Katy Perry and Cyrus got in some smooching action during the latter's Los Angeles concert in February. Cyrus tweeted the lip lock, though the pair later got into a beef about the smooch when Perry questioned Cyrus' tongue hygiene during a radio interview in March. They later made up -- via Twitter, of course.



In April 2014, a "Bangerz" tour bus caught fire, according to Cyrus' younger sister, Noah, who chronicled the incident on Twitter. In April 2014, a "Bangerz" tour bus caught fire, according to Cyrus' younger sister, Noah, who chronicled the incident on Twitter.



In April the singer was doing her thing on stage when a fight broke out between fans at a show in Detroit. Cyrus reportedly took time out to record the two women fighting for her Instagram account and can be heard yelling "Catfight!"In April the singer was doing her thing on stage when a fight broke out between fans at a show in Detroit. Cyrus reportedly took time out to record the two women fighting for her Instagram account and can be heard yelling "Catfight!"



On April 15, Cyrus was hospitalized for a "severe" allergic reaction to antibiotics reportedly taken for a bout with the flu and had to cancel some dates. "Kansas I promise Im as (heartbroken) as you are," the singer wrote. "I wanted so badly 2 b there 2night. Not being with yall makes me feel s**ttier than I already do."On April 15, Cyrus was hospitalized for a "severe" allergic reaction to antibiotics reportedly taken for a bout with the flu and had to cancel some dates. "Kansas I promise Im as (heartbroken) as you are," the singer wrote. "I wanted so badly 2 b there 2night. Not being with yall makes me feel s**ttier than I already do."




Ups and downs of Miley Cyrus' 'Bangerz' tour

Ups and downs of Miley Cyrus' 'Bangerz' tour

Ups and downs of Miley Cyrus' 'Bangerz' tour

Ups and downs of Miley Cyrus' 'Bangerz' tour

Ups and downs of Miley Cyrus' 'Bangerz' tour

Ups and downs of Miley Cyrus' 'Bangerz' tour

Ups and downs of Miley Cyrus' 'Bangerz' tour



Photos: Ups and downs of \'Bangerz\' tourPhotos: Ups and downs of 'Bangerz' tour






Mexican government angered by Miley stunt

Mexican law is very stern on the subject of respecting the flag, the Mexican seal and national anthem: Any action "that implies contempt or lack of respect to the Homeland Symbols will be punished according to its severity and the condition of the offender."


The act of disrespecting a Mexican symbol carries a fine up to about $1,200 and three days in jail, and that's if it doesn't happen during the commission of a felony.


There's been no word about putting the international pop star in the slammer, but lawmakers in Nuevo Leon state voted unanimously Wednesday to condemn the incident.


Speaking to CNN, state Rep. Francisco Treviño said the Mexican Interior Ministry has opened an investigation at the request of the state legislature.


"I felt truly offended and annoyed by the fact that a foreign artist feels like she can come here and make fun of and mock our national flag on Independence Day, September 16th. She brazenly made fun of our flag," Treviño said.


Regardless of where the investigation goes, Treviño says, it seems the 21-year-old Cyrus and her concert organizers have gotten the message.


"It's important to notice that in her second concert Wednesday (also in Monterrey) she didn't desecrate the flag. There were several flags on display at the concert venue, but their use was appropriate. I hope this incident serves to get the message out that we Mexicans don't like it when our flag is made fun of," Treviño said.


It's not the first time the singer has been at odds with officials in Latin America. Regulators of public events in the Dominican Republic canceled her concert scheduled for September 13 in Santo Domingo on morality grounds.


Cyrus is scheduled to perform in Mexico City on Friday and Guadalajara on Sunday before "Bangerz" moves on to Chile and Argentina.