Wednesday 26 February 2014

Spying on Muslims is legal?


An NYPD officer and a protester look on as advocates and residents hold a press conference June 18, 2013, in New York to discuss legal action challenging surveillance of businesses frequented by Muslim residents and of mosques.


An NYPD officer and a protester look on as advocates and residents hold a press conference June 18, 2013, in New York to discuss legal action challenging surveillance of businesses frequented by Muslim residents and of mosques.






  • A federal judge dismissed a suit challenging broad NYPD surveillance of Muslims

  • Arjun Sethi says the ruling breaches privacy, sustains fear among many Muslims

  • He says the judge erred in blaming journalists rather than police for the harm caused

  • Sethi: The targeting of Muslims will be seen as a tragic infringement of civil liberties




Editor's note: Arjun Sethi is a lawyer in Washington and a frequent commentator on civil rights and social justice-related issues. Follow him on Twitter: @arjunsethi81


(CNN) -- Muslims in America just lost their right to privacy. Last week, a federal judge in New Jersey ruled that blanket, suspicion-less surveillance of Muslims is permissible under the U.S. Constitution.


Since September 11, 2001, the New York Police Department has used community mapping, video surveillance, photography and confidential informants to map Muslim life in and around New York. No detail has proved too remote for the prying eyes of the NYPD. Mosques, student groups, restaurants, even grade schools, have all been surveilled.


In 2012, a group of New Jersey plaintiffs sued the NYPD, alleging that the spying program chills religious expression and stigmatizes Islam. The plaintiffs include an Iraq war veteran, a prominent mosque and a math teacher. Each was monitored by the NYPD absent any evidence of wrongdoing.



Arjun Sethi


The judge, however, ruled the plaintiffs failed to prove discrimination, and found that monitoring Muslims was the only way to stop terrorism arising from the Muslim community. The court also dealt a damaging blow to whistle-blowers, ruling that The Associated Press revelations about the program caused the plaintiffs' injury, not the NYPD. According to the judge, the harm to Muslim communities was caused by overzealous journalists, not snooping cops.


The most immediate effect of the decision is that it will deepen the isolation of Muslims in America. A report by The Creating Law Enforcement Accountability & Responsibility Project at CUNY Law School illustrates this sharply.


Many Muslims in New York live under an umbrella of fear. Not because they have anything to hide, but because they want to be left alone, what Justice Louis Brandeis once called the right most valued by civilized men.


They hesitate before speaking Arabic or Urdu in public, dither before attending religious services or joining faith based groups, and shy away from embracing emblems of faith, like hijabs and beards. Not even students are immune from this incessant second-guessing. Many vacillate before joining Muslim groups on campus or speaking on controversial issues like religious profiling in the classroom.


Nor is the problem confined to Muslims in and around New York. Indeed, the court's decision raises the specter of something far more ominous. What stops the federal government from mapping and monitoring Muslims nationwide?


Permitting dragnet religious surveillance of Muslim communities will also exacerbate anti-Muslim sentiment. The NYPD spying program comes on the heels of a nationwide maelstrom against Islam.


More than a dozen state legislatures have considered legislation criminalizing sharia law. Mosques have been burned and vandalized, and Muslims have been the target of countless hate crimes.


Congress has joined the chorus as well, with some members repeatedly overblowing the threat posed by home-grown Muslim extremism. This widespread animus has led to a disturbing paradox: More Americans fear Islam today than just after the 9-11 attacks.


Still, it's not just Muslims who should be troubled by the court's decision. It's every American, for in its faulty reasoning, the court has also diminished the U.S. Constitution. Consider an example. What if the NYPD had mapped the state's African-American population to stop criminal activity in that community? The practice would be denounced and defeated in a court of law.


Why then, is religious surveillance tolerated? Race and religion both have a storied role in American history, and both are afforded similar protection under the U.S. Constitution.


But, time and again, we ignore the enduring wisdom of the Bill of Rights, and succumb to political whim and social fiat. The Japanese relocation camps after Pearl Harbor; the blacklisting and harassment of communist sympathizers during the Cold War; the surveillance of civil rights, feminist and anti-Vietnam war activists throughout the 1960s and '70s; and more recently, stop and frisk in New York. The examples are legion. So is the disgrace.


These policies once enjoyed widespread support and were considered necessary law enforcement tools. Today, they are a stain on our national consciousness. Religious surveillance of Muslim communities will one day join this tragic, shameful legacy.


But until then, the New Jersey plaintiffs have vowed to press on. They announced last week that they intend to appeal the court's decision and vindicate their rights. I hope they succeed. In the end, they're fighting for the U.S. Constitution, and thus, you and me.


The opinions expressed in this commentary are solely those of Arjun Sethi.


Follow @CNNOpinion on Twitter .


Join us at Facebook/CNNOpinion .


The opinions expressed in this commentary are solely those of Arjun Sethi.



Can this sexy Chinese icon survive?






From its turn as a 1920s feminist statement to modern incarnations, the Hong Kong Museum of History's "<a href='http://ift.tt/1dBMDKL' target='_blank'>A Century of Fashion: Hong Kong Cheongsam Story</a>" celebrates the iconic dress. This contemporary version (not featured in the exhibit) is from Hong Kong fashion brand Shanghai Tang.From its turn as a 1920s feminist statement to modern incarnations, the Hong Kong Museum of History's "A Century of Fashion: Hong Kong Cheongsam Story" celebrates the iconic dress. This contemporary version (not featured in the exhibit) is from Hong Kong fashion brand Shanghai Tang.

Founded in 1966 in Hong Kong, Linva Tailor has watched the rise and fall of the cheongsam's popularity. "Cheongsam becomes trendy every decade or two in a cycle," says owner Leung Ching-wah. Founded in 1966 in Hong Kong, Linva Tailor has watched the rise and fall of the cheongsam's popularity. "Cheongsam becomes trendy every decade or two in a cycle," says owner Leung Ching-wah.


Founded in Hong Kong in 1994, Shanghai Tang has been a pioneer in transforming the cheongsam into a modern ready-to-wear dress. Last year's fall/winter collection incorporated sleek leather in place of traditional silk.

Founded in Hong Kong in 1994, Shanghai Tang has been a pioneer in transforming the cheongsam into a modern ready-to-wear dress. Last year's fall/winter collection incorporated sleek leather in place of traditional silk.

The Hong Kong Museum of History's cheongsam exhibit explains the evolution of the iconic and beloved Chinese dress through 130 gorgeous displays.The Hong Kong Museum of History's cheongsam exhibit explains the evolution of the iconic and beloved Chinese dress through 130 gorgeous displays.


Worn by Hong Kong actress Linda Lin Dai, four-time Best Actress award winner at the Asia Film Festival, this cheongsam exhibits a popular style in the 1950s, with an extremely narrow hem. A zip sewn into the top of the side slit on the left side makes it more convenient for the wearer to get in and out of a car.

Worn by Hong Kong actress Linda Lin Dai, four-time Best Actress award winner at the Asia Film Festival, this cheongsam exhibits a popular style in the 1950s, with an extremely narrow hem. A zip sewn into the top of the side slit on the left side makes it more convenient for the wearer to get in and out of a car.


This cheongsam was made by master Mong Kar-mo and worn by Loletta Chu-Lo when she won the 1977 Miss Hong Kong Pageant. Master Mong currently teaches a class on how to make cheongsam at the Hong Kong YMCA.

This cheongsam was made by master Mong Kar-mo and worn by Loletta Chu-Lo when she won the 1977 Miss Hong Kong Pageant. Master Mong currently teaches a class on how to make cheongsam at the Hong Kong YMCA.

The main elements of the dress's original silhouette -- high collar, flower buttons on the placket -- make it easy to incorporate into new designs.The main elements of the dress's original silhouette -- high collar, flower buttons on the placket -- make it easy to incorporate into new designs.

At Hong Kong cheongsam shops, customers choose a style off the rack before deciding on details such as flower buttons on the placket, sleeve length and slit depth. At Hong Kong cheongsam shops, customers choose a style off the rack before deciding on details such as flower buttons on the placket, sleeve length and slit depth.

Master tailor Leung Ching-wah (here with wife Joana Fung) suggests longer sleeves for customers conscious of their arms and a higher waistline for those who wish to hide their stomachs.Master tailor Leung Ching-wah (here with wife Joana Fung) suggests longer sleeves for customers conscious of their arms and a higher waistline for those who wish to hide their stomachs.


Per tradition, Miss Hong Kong candidates wear cheongsam during the award ceremony, as shown here by the winner and runners-up in 2006.

Per tradition, Miss Hong Kong candidates wear cheongsam during the award ceremony, as shown here by the winner and runners-up in 2006.









  • The Chinese cheongsam has a long history, but some worry its days are numbered

  • Hong Kong's cheongsam industry boomed in 1960s

  • The assistant curator of a Hong Kong cheongsam exhibit believes the dress will live on

  • Most cheongsam manufacturing has moved to mainland China




(CNN) -- It's perhaps the most iconic scene in the most iconic Hong Kong movie of all time.


The slender silhouette of the beautiful heroine, Su Li-zhen (Maggie Cheung), emerging from the darkness, revealing herself in a figure-hugging cheongsam.


The man she passes, newspaper editor Chow Mo-wan (Tony Leung), can't help falling in love with such a figure of feminine elegance.


Set in the 1960s, the golden era of the cheongsam in Hong Kong, Wong Kar Wai's hit movie, "In the Mood for Love" (2000), which won multiple best foreign movie awards, was a powerful showcase for how elegant and sexy the classic Chinese dress can be.


Wong has said 20 to 25 cheongsam alone were made for the character played by Maggie Cheung.


"A Century of Fashion: Hong Kong Cheongsam Story," now running at the Hong Kong Museum of History until March 3, features 130 exhibits showcasing the history and evolution of the cheongsam, particularly the eras featured in popular films such as "In the Mood for Love" and "The World of Suzie Wong" (1960).




The Hong Kong Museum of History is currently showcasing cheongsam that tell the century-old story of the Chinese dress.

The Hong Kong Museum of History is currently showcasing cheongsam that tell the century-old story of the Chinese dress.



Early cheongsam a feminist statement


The exhibition is a study in the history surrounding the iconic Chinese dress that can be confusing even to Chinese -- the proper use of "cheongsam" and "qipao," for instance.


"We prefer to call it cheongsam -- not qipao," says Osmond Chan, assistant curator of the exhibition.


"Cheongsam means long robe in Cantonese and actually only became a common woman's wear after the May Fourth Movement (1919), or the New Culture Movement," he says.


"Women started wearing men's long robes as a feminist statement and trend during that anti-Qing era.


"Therefore, it's a bit of an oxymoron to continue calling the dress qipao, which refers to the robe of the Manchu (the ruling power of Qing Dynasty)."


Early cheongsam didn't have the tight, figure-hugging shape the dress is known for today, but was originally worn loose on the body.


The shape changed and became tighter in Shanghai in the 1920s and '30s, a time often referred to as the golden age of the cheongsam in Shanghai.


With the rise of the Communist Party in the late 1940s and '50s, however, the dress, and the decadent Shanghai style it invoked, was restricted.


Shanghai tailors fled to Hong Kong, bringing the cheongsam with them.


The trend picked up quickly and Hong Kong experienced its own golden age of the cheongsam in the 1950s and '60s.


MORE: Ultimate Hong Kong shopping guide: Causeway Bay




Joana Fung, of Hong Kong\'s Linva Tailor, shows off a prized cheongsam.

Joana Fung, of Hong Kong's Linva Tailor, shows off a prized cheongsam.



Cheongsam master


Founded in 1966, Linva Tailor is one of the longest-standing cheongsam shops in Hong Kong.


While it's often assumed that owner and master tailor Leung Ching-wah made some of the costumes for Maggie Cheung in "In the Mood for Love," he says he can't talk about it.


Leung represents the old guard -- tailors who recognize the beauty of a boar-shaped cut or a sword-shaped binding on a side slit.


His wife, Joana Fung, dissects a cheongsam the way a sommelier talks about wine.


"The beauty of a cheongsam is not in the fabric -- fabrics can be purchased, but not the skills," says Fung.


Leung started apprenticing under a Shanghai tailor when he was 16.


He opened Linva Tailor seven years later.


"I spent the first few months only learning to hold a needle properly," says Leung. "One can only start making a cheongsam after a year of apprenticeship."


"In the '60s, every woman wore a cheongsam," says Leung.


As Western culture and fashion became more influential among Chinese in Hong Kong in the 1970s, the cheongsam lost its popularity.




In addition to ready-to-wear dresses, Shanghai Tang provides tailoring services.

In addition to ready-to-wear dresses, Shanghai Tang provides tailoring services.



Will the cheongsam survive?


The craft is diminishing. At least in Hong Kong.


All of Leung's in-house tailors are in their sixties.


Many have reduced their workloads.


Despite often being referred to as a sunset industry, however, Leung says he doesn't worry that cheongsam culture won't last for another century.


READ: How 'hanbok' is influencing biggest fashion names


In Hong Kong and China, the cheongsam is still popular for evening parties and company conferences.


"All brides will still don one at their weddings," says Leung.


"If you look at Miss Hong Kong beauty pageant, a section featuring candidates in cheongsam has been a must," says Chan.


Most cheongsam manufacturing has moved to factories in mainland China, where more than 15 manufacturers and suppliers have an online presence.


Although global sales are difficult to track, several Chinese makers advertise shops with a capacity for thousands of garments sewn monthly by staffs of 250 or more garment makers.


Brands like Shanghai Tang and Blanc de Chine, which carry cheongsam priced at about $400, are making their marks with modern twists on the cheongsam.


Opened in 1994 in Hong Kong with the idea of creating a modern Chinese chic style, Shanghai Tang has swelled into a multi-national fashion brand with 45 outlets.


The business is expanding both in China and around the world, according to Raphael le Masne de Chermont, executive chairman of Shanghai Tang.


The main elements of the dress's original silhouette -- high collar and flower buttons on the placket -- make it easy to incorporate into new designs, says Chan.


Inspiration still crosses over to Western runways cheongsam designs have been included in a 2011 Ralph Lauren collection, a 2012 Gucci collection and Emilio Pucci's 2013 spring/summer collection.


MORE: Best qipao tailors in Shanghai




Miss Hong Kong and runners-up celebrated the cheongsam in 2006. Pageant contestants still do.

Miss Hong Kong and runners-up celebrated the cheongsam in 2006. Pageant contestants still do.



Unlike kimono or hanbok


Though modern, hybrid versions of the cheongsam are popular, there remains an appetite for the more traditional shapes.


"Classes teaching how to make cheongsam are offered in Hong Kong," says Chan, adding that the continuity of passing down the skills for cheongsam-making shouldn't be reserved for great tailors.


YMCA HK's cheongsam classes for the public are conducted by Mong Kar-mo, a former tailor for the Miss Hong Kong Pageant.


Linva Tailor receives five or six orders per day and Leung hasn't thought of retiring.


"I started out in this business just hoping to make a living, but then I grew to learn the beauty of cheongsam," says Leung.


"It's different from ethnic costumes like the kimono and hanbok, as cheongsam has a highly flexible design," says Chan. "Elements like dress length, different materials and different levels of complexity make dresses suitable for a variety of occasions."


"As one Chinese saying goes, 'cheongsam is practical enough for the kitchen but presentable for the living room,'" says Chan.


"The reason it's been able to last for a century is because cheongsam is really beautiful on its wearer."


Ordering a cheongsam


At Hong Kong cheongsam shops, customers first choose a style off the rack before deciding on details such as fabric, flower buttons on the placket, sleeve length and slit depth.


The tailor then takes measurements and customers return for another fitting after a few days.


Final adjustments are made before decorative bindings and flower buttons are added and the dress can be properly finished.


The entire process usually takes two months.


Visitors who don't have as much time can choose a ready-made cheongsam and have it altered.


The finished product can be mailed to them.


Basic styles start from HK$2,000 ($260).


READ: Welcome back, Shanghai Tang! Hong Kong flagship biggest in the world


Linva Tailor, G/F, 38 Cochrane St., Central, Hong Kong; +852 2544 2456


A Century of Fashion: Hong Kong Cheongsam Story ; January 29 to March 3; 1/F Lobby, Hong Kong Museum of History, 100 Chatham Road, Tsim Sha Tsui East, Kowloon; +852 2724 9042; free admission



Everest gets 'security' after brawls


Climbers will have the aid of police stationed at Everest to resolve disputes more quickly.


Climbers will have the aid of police stationed at Everest to resolve disputes more quickly.






  • Security officers to be stationed at Everest to resolve disputes

  • Last year "brawl" took place on mountain between European climbers and Sherpas

  • Flat rate climbing fee also hoped to improve safety




(CNN) -- The world saw another side of Nepalese mountaineering in April last year when a brawl was reported between European climbers and Sherpas 22,000 feet up Mount Everest.


Now Nepalese authorities plan to station security officials at the base of the world's highest peak from the spring climbing season beginning in March.


Up to nine officers from the police and army will be sent to the mountain to try to resolve conflicts on the spot rather than having to appeal to authorities in Kathmandu.


"The police will be the state's representative at the mountain to verify incidents that have to be reported to the authorities," said Dipendra Poudel, a mountaineering official.









Mount Everest is a journey that challenges human nature on every level. Sandra LeDuc captured this photo as climbers approached the Hillary Step, before the Everest summit. Click through our gallery to see more photos from climbers taken on Everest during 2012.Mount Everest is a journey that challenges human nature on every level. Sandra LeDuc captured this photo as climbers approached the Hillary Step, before the Everest summit. Click through our gallery to see more photos from climbers taken on Everest during 2012.



Yak trains are used to carry the pounds of gear it requires to climb Everest. Jon Kedrowski's photo captured these yaks on the way to base camp.Yak trains are used to carry the pounds of gear it requires to climb Everest. Jon Kedrowski's photo captured these yaks on the way to base camp.



A helicopter flies into base camp. Rescue helicopters can't fly above Camp 2 on Everest to reach stranded climbers.A helicopter flies into base camp. Rescue helicopters can't fly above Camp 2 on Everest to reach stranded climbers.



A photo shows Jon Kedrowski crossing a crevasse in the Khumbu Icefall on a ladder.A photo shows Jon Kedrowski crossing a crevasse in the Khumbu Icefall on a ladder.



Jon Kedrowski snapped this photo at 6:30 p.m. on May 19th, 2012, at 26,000 feet as he looked out from his tent. He thought the climbers were beginning their summit attempt, but many clustered at the top were just beginning to come down from the top.Jon Kedrowski snapped this photo at 6:30 p.m. on May 19th, 2012, at 26,000 feet as he looked out from his tent. He thought the climbers were beginning their summit attempt, but many clustered at the top were just beginning to come down from the top.



The tents from Camp 1 appear incredibly small against the backdrop of Everest.The tents from Camp 1 appear incredibly small against the backdrop of Everest.



Nadav Ben Yehuda (left), Aydin Irmak and a Sherpa after Ben Yehuda rescued Irmak.Nadav Ben Yehuda (left), Aydin Irmak and a Sherpa after Ben Yehuda rescued Irmak.



Ben Yehuda's hand after frostbite set in.Ben Yehuda's hand after frostbite set in.




Ben Yehuda's photo of a lone tent at Camp 3 shows the loneliness that can reign on Everest.

Ben Yehuda's photo of a lone tent at Camp 3 shows the loneliness that can reign on Everest.



The peak of Nuptse, just over a mile southwest of Everest, is visible amongst the clouds in the Nepalese Himalayas.The peak of Nuptse, just over a mile southwest of Everest, is visible amongst the clouds in the Nepalese Himalayas.



Climbers on Everest work to help someone in distress.Climbers on Everest work to help someone in distress.



Sandra at Everest base camp with the team Sherpas.Sandra at Everest base camp with the team Sherpas.



The mesmerizing view from Everest's Pumori Camp 1, showing the visual effects of the atmosphere.The mesmerizing view from Everest's Pumori Camp 1, showing the visual effects of the atmosphere.



Sandra LeDuc captured this photo of a triumphant and relieved Jon Kedrowski reaching the summit of Mount Everest on May 26, 2012.Sandra LeDuc captured this photo of a triumphant and relieved Jon Kedrowski reaching the summit of Mount Everest on May 26, 2012.




Everest: From base camp to the summit

Everest: From base camp to the summit

Everest: From base camp to the summit

Everest: From base camp to the summit

Everest: From base camp to the summit

Everest: From base camp to the summit

Everest: From base camp to the summit

Everest: From base camp to the summit

Everest: From base camp to the summit

Everest: From base camp to the summit

Everest: From base camp to the summit

Everest: From base camp to the summit

Everest: From base camp to the summit

Everest: From base camp to the summit






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"It's [part of] our effort to make mountaineering respectable."


Mount Everest: By the numbers


Confrontation with Sherpas


The Swiss mountaineer Ueli Steck and the Italian Simone Moro were ascending Everest by a new route last April when they were reportedly confronted by a group of Sherpas laying ropes for other climbers who accused them of getting in the way.


The Europeans said the Sherpas threatened and then attacked them, including throwing rocks.




Around 300 people attempt to climb Everest every year.

Around 300 people attempt to climb Everest every year.



The Sherpas said the climbers had caused ice to drop on them and had ignored requests not to advance until the ropes had been laid.


The issue was resolved after a meeting mediated by a Nepalese army official leading an expedition.


With police at base camp, Nepalese liaison officers -- who accompany expeditions to ensure they abide by local laws -- will no longer have to report incidents at the nearest police station a seven-day trek away, said Gyanendra Shrestha, who has worked as such an officer.


Beginning this year, the Nepalese government will also have a secretariat headed by a civilian at Everest base camp, to which security officials will report.


"We plan to have a meteorologist and communications expert at the secretariat, too," Poudel said.


Everest men: On top of the world in 1963




Some have called for climbing permits to be restricted to experts.

Some have called for climbing permits to be restricted to experts.



Mountain traffic jams


While the quarrel between mountaineers and Sherpas made headlines in 2013, Nepalese authorities came under fire in 2012 for allowing "traffic jams" to build up on the mountain, allegedly contributing to accidents.


There have been calls to restrict climbing permits to expert mountaineers, preventing novices from attempting the peak.


"We are looking into the basis for setting [the] criteria [for climbing]," Poudel said.


For the past several years, around 300 foreign climbers have attempted to ascend Everest each spring.


To further regulate traffic, beginning this year the government has revised its royalty fees for climbing the mountain.


Last year the fee went down from $25,000 per climber to $10,000 if there were more than seven in a team.


The result was that climbers who didn't know each other clubbed together in "artificial" teams to pay significantly lower royalties.


But under new regulations, each foreign climber will pay a flat rate of $11,000 irrespective of the number of climbers.


Poudel said it was hoped this would improve safety and make managing teams easier.


Climbers recount deadly traffic jam on Everest


Manesh Shrestha is a journalist based in Kathmandu.